Vegan dining in Onomichi
Gateway to the Shimanami Kaido cycle route and oozing with Showa-retro charm, the waterfront town of Onomichi is a lovely place to visit whether or not you plan to saddle up. Until recently, cozy curry shop Coyote and Napoli-style Pizzeria Tranqullio have catered to vegan visitors. As demand for plant-based eats increases, more places are adding vegan options.
And, in 2026 we have seen two spots across the water on the island of Mukaishima start to offer some tasty vegan treats, perfect for cyclist starting or finishing the Shimanami Kaido.
Onomichi
Zenna-an [禅和庵]
New for 2026
Housed in a cozy house on one of Onomichi’s characteristic hillside alleyways, Zenna-an provides vegan diners with refined full-course meals that are as imaginative as they are delicious.
Due to the dedicated preparation required to provide customers the best possible dining experience, reservations are required three days in advance. If you are planning a trip to Onomichi, however, the effort is well worthwhile. The care and attention this charming couple takes to ensure a great dining experience are what Zenna-an has become renowned for, and now vegan diners can experience their hospitality too.
By virtue of the fact that, to ensure the best possible experience, the preparation of your meal doesn’t start until you are seated, the full-course meal is served at a beautifully relaxed pace that allows you to not only appreciate the food, but also the interior of the restored home in which it is served.
Your experience kicks off with a tofu tasting that primes your senses and features three different kinds of soy sauce with distinctive flavor profiles, each with a story behind it. The dishes that follow are built on the foundation of plant-based stock, hours in the making.
Highlights include Zennan-an’s take on Buddhist shojin grilled “eel,” and a delightful interpretation of chawanmushi steamed custard, which changes in flavor and texture as you make your way through the dish.
Zenna-an is open Wednesday to Sunday, from 11 am to 4 pm, and on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evenings from 6 pm to 9 pm.
Vegan options at Zenna-an
Full Course Vegan Meal
・Zen Tofu
・Tomato Mousse
・Crispy Salad
・Kuya-Mushi — Steamed Savoury Custard
・Clay Pot Rice
・Silky Edamame Soup
・Temple-Style Plant-Based “Eel”
・Eggplant & Tomato Mille-Feuille
Google Map | Website | Instagram
Tamaganzo [尾道渡し場たまがんぞう]
New for 2026
Housed in a distinctive, narrow, multi-story building on the Onomichi waterfront, Tamaganzo now offers a selection of vegan dishes, making it a contender for vegans seeking an izakaya-style vibe in the evening.
Seiro-mushi veggies steamed in bamboo steamers are a vegan staple here in Japan, but they can often be disappointing. Not here. The locally sourced vegetables are incredibly flavorful, even on their own, and the savory sauce that comes with them elevates them even further.
A long-popular menu item is their crispy-fried sweet potatoes, which have to be tasted to be believed. The blend of sweetness and umami is boosted by the aging process after harvesting the potatoes, and I can imagine many will order a second helping.
Fans of the vegetable and seaweed croquettes that are served at nearby Komedoko Shokudo will be happy to see them on the menu here, too. Ochazuke served with homemade miso made with seasonal vegetables is a great way to round off your meal.
Vegan options at Tamaganzo
・Onomichi Seasonal Vegetable Seiro-steamed
・Deep-Fried Aged “Beni Haruka” Sweet Potato
・Vegetable Croquette — Curry Flavor
・Special Miso Ochazuke
Tamaganzo is open 17:00-22:00 Tuesday to Saturday.
Google Map | Instagram | Website
Neko no Yokocho [猫の横丁]
New for 2026
Neko no Yokocho is a cat-themed cultural hub and souvenir shop, housed in a renovated building that used to serve as an Onomichi Maritime College dormitory. Appropriately, it is located on Neko no Hosomichi (Cat Alley) just above the grounds of Ushitora Shrine near the Senkoji Ropeway.
As well as craft activities and the chance to hang out with its cute in-house felines, Neko no Yokocho also has a take-out cafe serving drinks and a selection of light meals easy to eat on the hoof, including some vegan options.
Vegan options at Neko no Yokocho
・Vegan rice porridge with soy mince (now available)
・Vegan seasonal soup made with local vegetables (now available)
・Spicy vegan curry soup with 15 kinds of vegetables (coming soon)
Neko no Yokocho is open 10:00-17:45 every day except Thursday.
Google Map | Facebook | Instagram
Uoharu [魚春]
New for 2026
You might be surprised to find vegan food on the menu at a small seafood diner run by a family that has been selling fish at market in Onomichi for decades, but it is a testament to their open-mindedness and sense of hospitality that they do indeed offer a tasty plant-based option, which can be enjoyed while looking out onto the Onomichi waterfront.
Simple, but delicious, Uoharu’s vegan kaki-age donburi, a kind of tempura-fried fritter made up of fresh vegetables, covered in a deliciously sweet and savory sauce, on top of fluffy white rice, really hits the spot.
It is perfect for breakfast (they are open from 7 am) or as a light lunch. We are so happy that Uoharu is enthusiastic about sharing this local with vegans, locals, and fish-loving travelers.
Vegan options at Uoharu
・Vegan kakiage donburi
・Soft warabi mochi (white refined sugar used)
Uoharu is open 07:00–10:30 and 11:30-14:00 every day.
Google Map | Instagram | Website
Betcha no Ibukuro [廻船酒蔵ベッチャーの胃ぶくろ]
New for 2026
The intriguingly-named Betcha no Ibukuro – the “stomach of the betcha demons” who have protected the health of the people of Onomichi for centuries – specializes in seafood such as anago conger eel. Recently, however, they have added new dishes that allow vegan diners to join their omnivore friends in enjoying the spot’s flavors and vibe.
New on the menu are two dishes featuring tofu from a local tofu maker. The first is yudofu, a simple vegan staple, while the second uses a delicious sweet soy sauce to enhance the flavor of grilled compressed tofu, inspired by tsukune, a kind of chicken meatball.
Accompany these dishes with a fresh salad and, if you are brave enough, grilled natto with homemade miso (believe us, it’s good!). Wash it all down with some of their wide selection of sake and shochu, or one of their unique sours, which feature vinegar and are locally made in Onomichi.
Vegan options at Betcha no Ibukuro
・ Grilled “Tsukune-style” Marutani Tofu with sweet soy sauce
・ Betcha-style yudofu with Onomichi citrus
・ Chilled tofu
・ Setoda green salad
・ Grilled natto with homemade miso
Google Map | Instagram | Website
Komedoko Shokudo
Komedoko Shokudo is located right on the Onomichi waterfront, with great views of the boats that ply the Onomichi Channel from its large second-floor windows. It prides itself on using high-quality ingredients sourced from local producers and pays particular attention to health promotion, fermented food, and delicious rice.
Young manager-chef Ryosuke Takahashi noticed that, with some tweaks, a decent portion of his regular menu could be made suitable for vegan and vegetarian diners. After several months of experimentation, he created a selection of dishes that are not only animal-free but that he and his omnivore staff are proud to serve.
On offer are a deliciously creamy vegan miso gratin, a veggie croquette containing hijiki seaweed, and some of the juiciest soy meat slices served with a mouthwatering shimeji mushroom and lemon ginger sauce. Don’t miss super-fresh organic salads with the restaurant’s signature dressing and Kakikomi-Gohan, piping hot rice cooked with seasonal vegetables in an earthen pot. There is plenty to get your teeth into at Komedoko Shokudo, but be sure to leave room for a slice of mind-blowing vegan cheese cake, made by an affiliated shop.
Also, Takahashi’s take on local soul food, Onomichi Ramen, made with gluten-free rice noodles, is coming soon.
Komedoko Shokudo is open for dinner and lunch, providing an excellent place for vegan diners to enjoy their evenings in Onomichi. There also have plenty of seating.
Instagram ｜ Google Map ｜ Happy Cow
Kofuku
With just a small sign board outside, it is easy to miss this eight-seater okonomiyaki shop at the Onomichi Station end of the town’s retro shopping arcade. However, Kofuku is well worth seeking out, especially if you are looking for a vegan version of this local favorite.
Kofuku is run by the amiable Fukui, who married into a local family that has been making okonomiyaki for decades. Spend a few minutes talking with Fukui, and you will soon realise he is an independent thinker. When it comes to okonomiyaki, however, he is a stickler for tradition and feels a strong obligation to honor the legacy of his in-laws.
Luckily for vegans, his family has always used konbu dashi made from seaweed rather than the fish-based dashi, ubiquitous in Onomichi. Their thin soba noodles are also egg-free and lard isn’t used to treat the hot plate on which the okonomiyaki is grilled.
Fukui’s imagination comes in by adding ratatouille to the pancake batter, noodles, and cabbage mix. I’ve had scores of okonomiyaki over the years, but this was a revelatory taste sensation.
In addition to okonomiyaki, vegan-friendly sides include locally made tofu, edamame, and pickled Hiroshima-na mustard greens. Lacto-ovo vegetarians will also surely enjoy Kofuku’s tomato and cheese omelet.
Fukui is a wine expert and, unusual for an okonomiyaki spot, always has a couple of good bottles and a range of other drinks on hand.
Bingo Saryo
Located in Onomichi’s once bustling nightlife district of Shingai, Bingo Saryo offers a unique immersive dining experience that takes guests on a culinary journey through the Bingo region surrounding Onomichi.
A family-run affair, Bingo Saryo is best known for the local delicacy Tai-no-hamayaki, red sea bream coated in salt and carefully steamed. Keen to share the region’s culinary traditions with a broad audience, they also offer vegan courses featuring local seasonal ingredients influenced by Zen Buddhist cuisine.
Bingo Saryo only accepts one three-hour booking per day to focus on providing the best possible experience for its guests. Chef Takata is friendly, but serious about what he does. He goes to incredible lengths to secure the very best local produce and elevate his customers’ experience. He is ably assisted by his smiling wife, who doesn’t mind making the occasional joke at her husband’s expense.
Takata’s passion does not end with the food. The furnishings in the small Japanese-style bistro have stories behind them, and the serve ware is worthy of a place in a museum. His attention to detail is perhaps best illustrated by their commitment to making their own salt, using water drawn from the southern coast of the neighboring island of Mukaishima, on the night of the full moon!
The warmth of the Takata family is unmistakable. One of their young children is already training to take over from his father one day, and their artwork is displayed proudly alongside pieces created by traditional master craftspeople.
Reserve the Setouchi “Zen and Shojin Cuisine” Vegan Course (30,000 yen) at Savor Japan https://savorjapan.com/0031279646/
Website ｜ Google Map ｜ Happy Cow
Mukaishima
Focacceria Puffer [フォカッチェリアパッファー]
New for 2026
Painted in blue and white, the cute Focacceria Puffer is easy to spot along the road that connects the pier from which ferries run to and from Onomichi Port with the main Shimanami Kaido cycle route on Mukaishima Island.
Delicious focaccia, to eat-in or take-out, freshly baked by a friendly young couple who relocated to Mukaishima from their native Kyoto.
Vegan options in the display case are clearly labelled, and in addition to two kinds of vegan focaccia (plain and another flavor), their focaccia sandwich menu includes a vegan version, packed with extra locally sourced veggies and basil in place of the regular cheese and ham fillings.
This is a great place to pick up a snack for later if you are set off to explore the Shimanami Kaido by bike. They have a little table out front, which is bathed in afternoon sun, so it’s also a nice place to stop at the end of your ride and enjoy a cheeky aperitivo (just be sure to walk your bike the short distance to the ferry after drinking any alcohol).
Vegan options at Focacceria Puffer
・ Vegano Focaccia Sandwich
・ Plain Focaccia Rustica
・ One flavored vegan focaccia (Eg Tomato and Oregano, Olive and Onion)
・ 100% pure citrus juice
Focacceria Puffer is open 08:30-19:00 Wednesday to Saturday, and 08:30-18:00 on Sunday.
Google Map | Facebook | Instagram
Okonomiyaki Tessa [お好み焼 鉄板焼 鐵咲。]
New for 2026
Okomiyaki Tessa is a popular dinner spot (17:00-21:00, Thursday to Monday, and 12:00-14:00 on Sundays) serving Hiroshima’s soul food: layered okonomiyaki with noodles, along with a selection of grilled teppan dishes. Opening at 5 pm, it is a great option for a tasty feast after a Shimanami Kaido bike ride, before taking the ferry over to Onomichi.
The owner tries his best to keep chemical additives in ingredients to a minimum and has thrown himself wholeheartedly into developing plant-based options that will delight vegan and non-vegan customers alike.
Vegans or those just looking for a break from meat and seafood can opt for Tessa’s Hatake no Okonomiyaki (Farm-style Okonomiyaki), the shop’s standard plant-based okonomiyaki, which consists of wheat flour batter, cabbage, bean sprouts, fried onion, green onion, soy meat, rock salt, garlic powder, olive oil, soba noodles, vegan okonomiyaki sauce, aonori seaweed, white pepper, and white sesame seeds.
This can then be customized with a range of plant-based “toppings” to create a plethora of flavor combinations. Recommended combinations include grilled green negi onions topped with seared vegan mayonnaise, sweetcorn (which adds a nice crunch) and vegan cheese, and avocado with vegan mayonnaise.
If the choice is all too much, why not opt for the Hatake no Okonomiyaki Special, which includes avocado, green negi onions, vegan cheese, and seared vegan mayonnaise?
If you like to linger and enjoy drinks while chatting with the owner and local customers (or just want something while your okonomiyaki is being cooked), there is also a good selection of plant-based dishes on the menu, beyond okonomiyaki.
Seating is limited to 6 people at the counter and two small hot plate tables for 4 with sunken tatami mat seating. As Tessa is a popular local watering hole, arriving soon after opening is recommended to secure a seat.
※ Smoking is allowed
Okonomiyaki Tessa is open 17:00-21:00, Thursday to Monday, and 12:00-14:00 on Sundays.
Vegan options at Okonomiyaki Tessa
・Standard Hatake no Okonomiyaki
・Hatake no Okonomiyaki Special
・Pizza-style vegan cheese grill
・Jagarette shredded potatoes, grilled with vegan cheese
・Thick fried tofu with shiso & vegan cheese
・Stir-Fried vegetables with soy meat
・Cold tofu
・Grilled edamame
・Avotaku Avocado & Pickled Radish Roll
・Spicy Cucumber
