Vegan dining in Onomichi
Gateway to the Shimanami Kaido cycle route and oozing with Showa-retro charm, the waterfront town of Onomichi is a lovely place to visit whether or not you plan to saddle up. Until recently, cozy curry shop Coyote and Napoli-style Pizzeria Tranqullio have catered to vegan visitors. As demand for plant-based eats increases, more places are adding vegan options.
Komedoko Shokudo
Komedoko Shokudo is located right on the Onomichi waterfront, with great views of the boats that ply the Onomichi Channel from its large second-floor windows. It prides itself on using high-quality ingredients sourced from local producers and pays particular attention to health promotion, fermented food, and delicious rice.
Young manager-chef Ryosuke Takahashi noticed that, with some tweaks, a decent portion of his regular menu could be made suitable for vegan and vegetarian diners. After several months of experimentation, he created a selection of dishes that are not only animal-free but that he and his omnivore staff are proud to serve.
On offer are a deliciously creamy vegan miso gratin, a veggie croquette containing hijiki seaweed, and some of the juiciest soy meat slices served with a mouthwatering shimeji mushroom and lemon ginger sauce. Don’t miss super-fresh organic salads with the restaurant’s signature dressing and Kakikomi-Gohan, piping hot rice cooked with seasonal vegetables in an earthen pot. There is plenty to get your teeth into at Komedoko Shokudo, but be sure to leave room for a slice of mind-blowing vegan cheese cake, made by an affiliated shop.
Also, Takahashi’s take on local soul food, Onomichi Ramen, made with gluten-free rice noodles, is coming soon.
Komedoko Shokudo is open for dinner and lunch, providing an excellent place for vegan diners to enjoy their evenings in Onomichi. There also have plenty of seating.
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Kofuku
With just a small sign board outside, it is easy to miss this eight-seater okonomiyaki shop at the Onomichi Station end of the town’s retro shopping arcade. However, Kofuku is well worth seeking out, especially if you are looking for a vegan version of this local favorite.
Kofuku is run by the amiable Fukui, who married into a local family that has been making okonomiyaki for decades. Spend a few minutes talking with Fukui, and you will soon realise he is an independent thinker. When it comes to okonomiyaki, however, he is a stickler for tradition and feels a strong obligation to honor the legacy of his in-laws.
Luckily for vegans, his family has always used konbu dashi made from seaweed rather than the fish-based dashi, ubiquitous in Onomichi. Their thin soba noodles are also egg-free and lard isn’t used to treat the hot plate on which the okonomiyaki is grilled.
Fukui’s imagination comes in by adding ratatouille to the pancake batter, noodles, and cabbage mix. I’ve had scores of okonomiyaki over the years, but this was a revelatory taste sensation.
In addition to okonomiyaki, vegan-friendly sides include locally made tofu, edamame, and pickled Hiroshima-na mustard greens. Lacto-ovo vegetarians will also surely enjoy Kofuku’s tomato and cheese omelet.
Fukui is a wine expert and, unusual for an okonomiyaki spot, always has a couple of good bottles and a range of other drinks on hand.
Bingo Saryo
Located in Onomichi’s once bustling nightlife district of Shingai, Bingo Saryo offers a unique immersive dining experience that takes guests on a culinary journey through the Bingo region surrounding Onomichi.
A family-run affair, Bingo Saryo is best known for the local delicacy Tai-no-hamayaki, red sea bream coated in salt and carefully steamed. Keen to share the region’s culinary traditions with a broad audience, they also offer vegan courses featuring local seasonal ingredients influenced by Zen Buddhist cuisine.
Bingo Saryo only accepts one three-hour booking per day to focus on providing the best possible experience for its guests. Chef Takata is friendly, but serious about what he does. He goes to incredible lengths to secure the very best local produce and elevate his customers’ experience. He is ably assisted by his smiling wife, who doesn’t mind making the occasional joke at her husband’s expense.
Takata’s passion does not end with the food. The furnishings in the small Japanese-style bistro have stories behind them, and the serveware is worthy of a place in a museum. His attention to detail is perhaps best illustrated by their commitment to making their own salt, using water drawn from the southern coast of the neighboring island of Mukaishima, on the night of the full moon!
The warmth of the Takata family is unmistakable. One of their young children is already training to take over from his father one day, and their artwork is displayed proudly alongside pieces created by traditional master craftspeople.
Reserve the Setouchi “Zen and Shojin Cuisine” Vegan Course (30,000 yen) at Savor Japan https://savorjapan.com/0031279646/
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