Road tripping in Iwami: A night in Yunotsu
Yunotsu is a tiny hot spring village tucked behind a headland on the rugged Japan Sea coast. The headland shelters the settlement from powerful storms and rough seas. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Yunotsu was a vital port, shipping silver extracted from Iwami Ginzan mines far and wide and is part of the Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Site.
This is Part 2 of Road Tripping in Iwami.
Part 1 | Part 3
Passing the port and entering the narrow streets is like entering a bygone age. The architecture is a charming mix of traditional samurai-era buildings and those influenced by early to mid-20th-century Western design.
Dusk falls as we drive through the town, occasionally having to back up to allow an elderly local to manoeuver their kei-car on their way home. I notice a handful of stylish shops, eateries, and even a bar, housed in traditional buildings. Most surprising is the coolest laundromat I have ever seen. There is obviously something going on here in this tiny corner of Oda City.
Our lodgings for the night are a 10-minute drive over ever-narrower forest roads to the truly hidden village of Hiso. Warm lights spill from the windows of a Japanese farmhouse, and we gasp as we enter.
HISOM HISO provides a quintessential traditional farmhouse experience with all the modern comforts you could wish for from the genkan entrance hall and beautifully restored bedrooms and lounge space to the contemporary kitchen (you can even arrange for a chef to come and prepare meals for you).
HISOM HISO is one of several projects spearheaded by Masako Oumi to help preserve the local culture and ways of life of this stretch of the Japan Sea coast. Sustainable principles can be seen throughout the property, no more so than using gorgeously rustic upholstery made from upcycled materials and natural dying methods.
We learn that Oumi is also behind the fancy laundromat mentioned above and that she and her partner have renovated several properties into comfortable lodgings at various price points. Their company, WATOWA’s work is having a positive ripple effect, attracting others from around Japan, inspired by their passion, to settle in the area, and start new businesses.
Feeling hot, hot, hot at Yakushiyu
After getting settled and exploring the house, it’s onsen time! You cannot go to Yunotsu and not partake in its hot spring culture. It must be said, Yunotsu’s two public hot springs offer a unique and invigorating experience. While they are quite hot, they are manageable with the right approach.
The friendly smile with which I am greeted on entering the grand hallway of Yakushiyu Hot Spring is followed by some kind advice on how to best enjoy the hot spring, ensuring a comfortable and safe experience. I am told to start by pouring the water over my feet, rather than directly on my chest, to avoid discomfort. I am recommended to soak for no more than 2 minutes at a time and repeating the process multiple times. Finally, to receive the full benefits of the hot spring, it is best not to rinse the water off after you get out of the bath.
I enjoy my baths at high temperatures, and Yakushiyu was did not disappoint. It was thoroughly enjoyable, and I appreciated the refreshing winter air when I stepped back into the street.
My visit was on a Wednesday, and most restaurants and cafes seemed closed, but I was delighted that Shiki, a short walk from Yakushiyu, was open. After my onsen experience, a cold draft beer tasted wonderful –– a warning though: I did have to steady myself after the first few gulps, so please take it steady if drinking alcohol soon after an onsen in Yunotsu!
I am a vegetarian, and, while they may struggle to accommodate vegan diners without advance notice, there were several delicious dishes to choose from on the menu. I particularly enjoyed the truffle risotto and dessert.
By the end of dinner, all in our party were now firm fans of Yunotsu, and a nightcap seemed in order. We decamped to Soho, the bar we had spotted on our way in. A quiet space in a renovated storehouse attached to a guesthouse, the owner serves imaginative cocktails, some of which make great use of local products such as sake and fruits.
After a hot soak, a good feed, and a little tipple, we hailed the only taxi in town to take us back to HISOM HISO and fell asleep to the sound of the wind and waves crashing into the nearby cove.
Read the rest of Road Tripping in Iwami: Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3
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