Road Tripping in Iwami
I was recently invited on a two-day road trip to Iwami in Shimane Prefecture. Although I have visited Hamada and Gotsu in the center of this rural region, the east, known to locals as ‘Sekitou’ and made up of Oda, Misato, and Ochi-gun, was still unknown to me. Knowing, however, that despite its reputation for being one of the least visited regions in Japan, Shimane Prefecture is full of hidden gems and surprises, I jumped at the chance.
Into the wild
Leaving the calm of the Inland Sea behind and crossing the Chugoku mountains to the more rugged Japan Sea coast often feels like entering a wilder, more primal Japan. This is none more so than in February. As the expressway ascended, we were soon enveloped in a blanket of swirling white snow, and I was thankful that I had spotted a stay at an onsen hot spring town on our itinerary.
In Iwami, all that glitters isn’t gold
Gin-sekai is a Japanese expression that conjures up images of a snow-covered landscape. As GIN is the character for silver, it was appropriate that our first stop was the Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Site, once one of the world’s most productive silver mines.
A tour of the well-curated Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Center revealed that the site covers not only the mines themselves but a vast swathe of land dotted with once-thriving settlements and important transportation routes linking the mines with the ports on the Japan Sea. During the 16th and 17th centuries, much of the approximately one-third of the world’s silver produced in Japan left from these ports across the sea to the countries of East Asia, oiling the wheels of world trade.
The exhibits give a great idea of the bewildering extent of the network of narrow tunnels that the mine workers dug with rudimentary tools by the light of tiny lamps, on which Iwami Ginzan’s cute mascot, Ratochan is based.
Via video and VR, we got a tantalizing look inside some impressive mine shafts and walking paths that take you past remnants of the mine surrounded by lush green nature. The paths were off-limits due to the snow, and the largest mine shaft, the Okubomabu, was closed to allow hibernating bats to sleep undisturbed. Returning to explore further on foot, by rental battery-assisted bicycles, or in an eco-friendly 6-seater electric utility vehicle is high on this year’s to-do list.
Omori
Next to the visitor center is Omori. At its peak, around 200,000 people are said to have lived in Omori, but today, the serene village is home to just 400 residents and is a captivating step back in time, full of the elegance of Japan’s Edo period. The narrow streets are lined with beautifully maintained samurai residences, historic merchant houses, and centuries-old shrines and temples.
Many of Omori’s historic buildings have been repurposed as boutiques, cafes, restaurants, and places to stay. We popped into Gungendo’s flagship store Gungendo Store and Cafe. This local company aims to reinvigorate the town through imaginative architectural renovation, promoting traditional crafts, and showcasing the local area’s produce through delicious cuisine.
I am struck by the contrast between the serenity of Omori’s streets and vibrant atmosphere of inside this sprawling complex which features impressive artworks, a store selling high quality lifestyle products and clothing, and a stylish cafe–– all housed in a traditional merchant house that has been elegantly brought into the 21st century.
Getting crafty in Omori
Staying on brand, we were to create our own silver rings. We were greeted by a kind gentleman who showed us to our workstation where a set of tools was laid out and waiting. After selecting the rings we would work on, we got to practicing how to emboss the inside with a personal message and decorations on a piece of copper plate, before committing our designs to the real thing.
I don’t consider myself particularly crafty, but working with the tools was surprisingly satisfying and fun. The final product also makes a pretty nice souvenir or gift.
While the resident silversmith finished buffing our rings, we explored Omori further, visiting the atmospheric 501 rakan statues of Rakanji Temple.
Rakanji Temple
The temple was built in the mid-18th century to memorialize the people who had lost their lives in the mines of Iwami Ginzan. The statues of the Buddhist arhats (those who have attained spiritual enlightenment) are housed in caves dug into the mountainside. They all have different postures and expressions. It is said that local people would (and still perhaps do) seek out a statue that looks like a deceased family member.
Within the temple grounds: On a lighter note, across the street from the Arhat caves is a pond where a statue of the goddess Benzaiten stands.
Benzaiten is the god of money and water. Washing your money in the pond with appropriate devotion is said to bring wealth and good fortune. Hoping for extra help in 2025, I opted to wash paper money rather than coins. It remains to be seen if it will work, but my 1000 yen note blowing away in a gust of wind doesn’t bode well…
At the other end of the village, a camphor tree towers above the stone torii gateway to Kigami Shrine. The center of the main hall’s ceiling is decorated with a mural of a brightly colored ‘roaring dragon.’
Clapping your hands directly below the dragon produces a mysterious acoustic effect resembling a dragon’s roar. My claps seemed to produce more of a whimper than a roar, but maybe that was because the resident dragon was sad to see us leave as it was time to head to the coast to our lodgings in the onsen town of Yunotsu.
Read the rest of Road Tripping in Iwami: Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3
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